It is best to begin very early from Kathmandu to avoid traffic and arrive before dusk in Koto. The drive is a classic Himalayan road-trip, with great views, an excellent lunch in Besi Sahar and plenty of village life to see along the way. The final section of the drive follows the Marsyangdi river, which we will continue to follow in the days to come. Almost all the villages in this region are Gurung communities, which are noted for their friendliness, jovial spirit and excellent work ethic.

At the end of Koto village there is a traditional stone doorway and a police checkpost. After registering, descend and cross a suspension bridge to the true left bank and follow a trail into the Naar-Phu Khola gorge, which has been blasted from a sheer rock-face. The gorge quickly narrows and the surrounding pine and fir forest obscure any views. After 2½ hours, cross a bridge to the true left (east) bank of the Naar-Phu Khola and pass a broad grassy campsite. In less than 30 minutes you will cross a suspension bridge over the Seti Khola tributary. Huge boulders almost obscure the river, which you follow for another 1¼ hours to the second major river obstruction and Chhonghe teahouse.

The trail now becomes steeper and the gorge closes in to form a canyon. The river roars as it crashes against a third and then a fourth series of boulders deposited by ancient landslides. After the last series of boulders cross a wooden bridge (3180m, 1hr) to the true right (west) bank and follow a trail gouged from a cliff-face. After another 30 minutes re-cross the river to the true left bank and climb through a forested section of trail, then around a cut-away formed by a waterfall over the path before a short final climb to the stone huts of Singenge Dharamsala (3230m, 1.5hrs). The trail remains in the valley bottom for another 30 minutes and then crosses a small bridge over a tributary and climbs for about 250m to the seasonal settlement of Meta (3560m, 1hr). As you reach the top of the climb there are good views back down the Naar-Phu Khola to Annapurna II and Lamjung Himal. You can also see a large chorten in the valley bottom near some bridges, which eventually lead to Naar village over a deep gorge – you will take this route on your return from Phu.

The trail now makes an easy traverse of azalea-covered hillside to a broad clearing at Junam Goth (3690m, 2.5hrs). The trail dips down to the Junam Khola and then climbs to the twin villages of Chyakhu (3800m, 1hr), which are seasonal settlements shared by both the Naar and Phu villagers. From Upper Chyako, the trail climbs a little before crossing the Mruju Khola, which is the outflow of the Lyapche Glacier above. The trail now climbs and crosses an eroded section of moraine which offers excellent views back down the valley to Pisang Peak and to the north of Kyang (3850m, 1.5hrs).

The trail enters a narrow gorge that runs due north from Kyang; follow a trail cut away from a large cliff-face before descending to the river. Do not cross a small wooden bridge over the river, instead continue heading north on the true left side of the river, which swings north-east after 2 hours. The valley now opens up and you pass some derelict chorten, the valley ahead looks completely uninhabitable. Keep watch for blue sheep on the cliff-faces on the far bank. The trail stays beside the river until you can see a large pinnacle of rock standing across the entrance of a gorge. With a little imagination you can see faces in the rock surface, which are said to be evil spirits that have been trapped by the valley guardian. A narrow and steep trail climbs to the right of the rock pinnacle to a doorway and mani wall (4020m, 2.5hrs), which offers views of the valley ahead.

The trail winds around the eastern hillside above a deep gorge before descending slightly to a series of deserted buildings and large chorten. Cross the bridge to the true right bank to see the chorten, or continue on the true left (eastern) bank to a suspension bridge, which you must cross to reach the village of Phu (4100m, 1hr).

The locals say that the dry-stone walled village of Phu has been here for 800 years, which is easy to believe when you start exploring. Take your time and if you are lucky you might be invited into a home for some salt-butter tea. On the far side of the river above Phu is a peninsula of loose rock carved by two rivers. Climb to the top to visit Tashi Gompa and the inspiring amchi, traditional Tibetan medicine doctor, Lama Karma. The Lama has many stories to tell and may invite you for a puja ceremony.

Note: A number of trekking/mountaineering groups have crossed from Upper Mustang to Phu via a series of snow plateaus and passes through the Damodhar Himal; it takes 8-10 days and is extremely challenging, involving mountaineering skills, difficult navigation and very high altitudes over 6000m.

As today is an easy trek, you might try to organise a morning puja ceremony with Lama Karma. Retrace your steps down the Phu Khola, through Kyang and Chyako to the campsite at Naar Phedi (3450m, 5.5hrs).

Continue down the same trail to a point where you can see the bridges to Naar. A loose and sometimes steep trail descends towards the bridges, marked by an ancient and derelict tower (3570m, 1.5hrs). You may prefer to cross the 80m deep gorge on the new suspension bridge rather than the original wooden and dry-stone version. From the bridge climb a broad trail, where there are good views of Pisang Peak and Kang Guru. After 2 hours you will reach a large chorten and long mani wall where the gradient eases. Continue for less than 1 hour to Naar village (4110m), built in a natural bowl with many terraced fields beneath. There is an excellent camping area above the village.

Note: The valley behind (to the north) Naar is a route to Tengge in Upper Mustang, via Teri La, see Teri La – from Naar to Lo Manthang. This route doesn’t offer many water sources, especially in the pre-monsoon months of April and May. You also need a Mustang trekking permit to complete this route to Ghemi (5-6 days), for further information see the Mustang chapter introduction.

Leave the village on a trail that passes the small hydro plant and then climbs a little to a broad U-shaped valley to the west of Naar. Climb an easy gradient past yak herding pastures and kharka for 2.5 hours to Kang La Phedi (4530m).

The trail climbs away from the pastures below and then steepens on a rocky trail, which is often icy. After 2 hours you will reach a small flat area of loose scree (5020m), where the trail again steepens before arriving at a small glacial lake (5245m, 1.5hrs) and the final climb to the Kang La (5306m, 30 mins).

The pass is about 3 metres wide and decorated with many prayer flags. There are good views from the summit but they improve when you descend a little and can see past the rock wall to your right. Peeking over the ridge joining Annapurna III and IV is the summit of Machhapuchhare (Fish Tail Peak). To the west you can spot Tilicho Peak and the entire Manang valley. The Annapurna Circuit trail lies about 2000m down in the valley below.

From the pass, descend steep scree slopes while being careful not to cause rockfall, to roughly 4500m (1.5hrs) where the trail becomes firmer underfoot. The trail is easy to follow all the way to azalea and rhododendron bushes, where it then descends a ridge to the village of Ngawal (3660m, 2.5hrs).

If you are flying or driving out from Humde (3280m, 1hr), continue down through the village and cross a suspension bridge to the west of the airstrip and the village, but only go there if you really have to!

Follow the main trail through the upper section of the Ngawal community, do not head down through the village. An easy trail leads to the Lopheling Monastery before descending steeply for about 200m into a pretty pine-forested valley. The very small community of Julu (3500m, 1 hour) has two small teashops where you can also have a simple lunch if you had a late start.

Head down the valley, first following a rough dirt road, but then on clearly marked trail into the main Marsyangdi valley. The trail gradually turns right (west) and joins the road that leads to Munchi (Mugji, 3330m, 1.5hrs). The 600-year-old village of Braga (3467m, 30 mins), which is not far and has good teahouses and a fabulous gompa. Manang (3540m, 20 mins), is very close ahead, where there are many teahouses and campsites, as well as a maze-like village that dates back hundreds of years. For trekkers on the Annapurna Circuit, Manang is an acclimatisation stop so there are many more services, restaurants and teahouses than you will have come across so far!

Just beyond Manang is the village of Tangki (3530m, 20 mins), which overlooks the entire community. The trail now swings north and climbs gently to a stone wall with a gate that stops livestock from leaving the high pastures. Do not allow any animals to pass through the gate; if it is locked, use the stone steps to your right. Not much further is Ghusang (3950m, 1hr from Tangki), where you can enjoy some great views of the Chulu Himal, Annapurna III, Gangapurna, Tare Kang (Glacier Dome), Khangsar Kang (Roc Noir) and Tilicho Peak.

An easy gradient leads to a suspension bridge over the Ghyanchang Khola, where there are a couple of small teashops (40 mins). In another 1 hour you will reach Yak Kharka (4050m), where there are a few teahouses beneath a slight rise to another teahouse. The trail now climbs fairly constantly at an easy gradient to Ledar (4200m, 40 mins), where there are some simple teahouses.

Continue across a hillside covered with many trails and at the first major trail junction take the right, straight route rather than descending to the river. At the next trail junction, take the left-hand straight route, rather than climbing. After 50 minutes from Ledar the trail descends to a wooden bridge over the Kone Khola, which you cross before climbing to a teashop that is expensive (20 mins). It’s now an easy 35 minutes to Thorung Phedi (4450m). Continue climbing a steep climb up scree to Thorung ‘Base Camp’, the highest teahouse before the major climb to the pass (4830m, 1hr).

It is a good idea to get a pre-dawn start from Thorung Phedi to avoid the strong winds that often affect the pass after 11am. The trail winds through a watercourse before climbing through another larger gully formed by the melt from a glacier on the eastern side of Thorung Peak. In 1.5 hours from ‘Base Camp’ you reach a well-built dharamsala at 5100m, which also offers a campsite for those wanting a genuine high camp (ensure you are well acclimatised). From here it’s 2 hours across undulating moraine to the top of Thorung La (5416m), where there is a teashop in peak trekking season, but expect to pay handsomely for a drink! On a clear day you should be able to see some of the Annapurna range to the south and Mukut Himal bordering Dolpo to the west.

From the pass the trail descends steeply over scree, which gives way to grassy meadows before reaching Muktinath (3760m, 3.5hrs). This large village is a very important pilgrimage site for Hindus and Buddhists, who live in a sacred compound around an eternal flame-from-water. Take some time to visit the famous Hindu temple with 108 carved spouts from which holy water flows, making a cold shower for the brave!

The valley around and beneath Muktinath has five Buddhist gompas and many Hindu shrines. The trail is broad and busy with four-wheel-drive cars and motorcycles ferrying Hindu pilgrims from Jomsom. From Muktinath, take a trail that descends towards and then through Jharkot (3550m, 30 mins). From here you can avoid the motor road (a 60-min jeep trip to Jomsom, or 40 mins to Kagbeni) by following a small irrigation stream to Khingar (3280m, 30 mins) but from here you will have to take the road route. Make sure you have a scarf or similar to cover your face against dust kicked up by jeeps, or the fierce afternoon wind. Once you reach a broad, flat plateau as you enter the main Kali Gandaki valley there is a shortcut track to Kagbeni (2810m, 1.5 hours), which avoids the road.

Kagbeni is a delightful village that used to be the Nepal/Tibet border and lies in the bottom of the windswept valley floor of the Kali Gandaki, said to be the deepest river gorge in the world because of the twin 8000m peaks of Annapurna and Dhaulagiri above. The gompa in the middle of the old village is in good condition, and look for the male and female protectors at either end of old boundary wall.

The airstrip at Jomsom is 2.5 hours walk (or a 20-minute drive by jeep) to the south, where there are many teahouses and services. There are regular morning flights from Jomsom to Pokhara; the later flights have more potential to be delayed.

Note: If you are delayed because of bad weather in Jomsom, there is an excellent and easy day trip down to Marpha village and back to Jomsom (4hr round trip). Marpha is the centre of the Thakali community and site of a good-quality apple brandy distillery. The locals also make cider and apple pie, both of which are very popular with trekkers!