It is a good idea to get the earliest possible flight to Tumlingtar (410m) and take the first available jeep to Num. The return jeep journey from Num to Tumlingtar will mean you’ll have to overnight near the airstrip, so it is prudent to book the teahouse accommodation when you first arrive.

If you look across the valley to the northwest, you will see the day’s destination, the village of Seduwa. The main trail from Num continues along the ridge before curving back on itself to lose height. However, there is also a direct route down some rough steps, which is hard to locate and begins near the village centre (ask around for directions). In 1.5 hours you should reach the Arun Nadi (760m) and cross the suspension bridge. The dense, moist forest of the east bank contrasts with the open deciduous forest on the west bank before giving way to cultivation.
It will take about 3 hours to climb to Seduwa (1500m), a large trading village with views of countless mid-hills receding into the distance. You will need to register again with the National Park office.

Today is the last day of walking through villages as you draw closer to the Khongma Danda, the large and imposing forested ridge at the end of the valley. An easy trail to Murmidanda (1560m, 1 hour) brings you to a school where the children will almost certainly break class to ask you questions. The climb to Narbugaon (2000m, 1.5 hours) eases to become a straightforward trail that traverses hillside through cultivated fields. As Tashigaon (2100m, 1 hour) is the last village on the trail, your guide will spend some time re-stocking food and fuel supplies.
It is important that you also research trail conditions for the coming days, check if there is any snow or hazards on the trail, and that locals are using the route. You will be told that there are no supplies up the Barun Nadi valley; this is not true during the main trekking seasons, as all basic supplies are available, although expensive, all the way to Makalu Base Camp.

The trail climbs, often steeply, through some of the most impressive cloud-forest in Nepal. It is important that you climb slowly, rest frequently, and perhaps take some time to admire the clusters of orchids hanging above. Make sure you have enough water and snacks to last the day, as there is no convenient lunch spot with running water. Unshisa (3110m, 5 hours) is the teashop which is open in the main trekking season. You now climb on to the Khongma Danda and teahouse (3500m, 2 hours) with morning views of Makalu, and Peak 6 and Peak 7 in the foreground.

This is one of the most wonderful places in the entire Himalaya to kick back and enjoy the view, and all in the name of acclimatisation!

Today is the toughest day on the trek so far and you must be on the lookout for altitude-sickness symptoms in the party. The day begins by continuing along the ridge past the prayer-flag-covered Kauma La (3603m, 1.5 hours) with views of Makalu, Chamlang, Baruntse, and if the weather to the east is clear, Kanchenjunga and Jannu.
The trail now climbs to the left of the main ridge up to Shipton’s Pass (aka Tutu La, 4125m, 2.5 hours) before descending for 200m to a large lake called Kalo Pokhari, which can offer sublime reflections of Peaks 6 and 7 and Chamlang in calm, clear conditions.
A short climb up to Keke La (4170m, 1 hour) gives views of the Chamlang range and Tibet to the north, the Barun Nadi flows almost 1000m below. The 2.5-hour descent is steep and rocky all the way to the stone huts and campsite of Mumbuk (3540m).

The trail descends to the Barun Nadi before turning upstream on the true right bank and traversing the steep hillside, which is often affected by landslides. You should take care when crossing any loose ground, as well as watching for rockfall from above. Then about 4.5 hours of alternate loose landslide and stable trails bring you to Nehe Kharka (3700m) in a meadow surrounded by pine trees. During the monsoon, normally for the August full moon, there is a fertility festival here as a tradition tells that a famous Buddhist sage, Guru Rimpoche, stayed in a cave high above.
Cross more loose sections of trail, with an occasional well-formed path, to continue beside the Barun Nadi before crossing on a log bridge to a wide grassy field called Yangri Kharka (Yangla Kharka, 3557m, 2 hours).

Take your time today as the next section of the trail is one of the most spectacular in the entire Himalaya. Yosemite-like cliffs form an enormous U-shaped valley crested with glaciers and a series of snowy peaks including Pyramid Peak, Peak 4, Peak 6, Chamlang, and Peak 5 all show themselves. In one monstrous rock-face, a massive cave contains a waterfall in freefall. Lumdar (strings of prayer flags) are suspended from poles to mark a pilgrimage site popular during the July/August full moon when it is said that the waters here can cure many illnesses. For 3 hours you’ll keep stopping and absorbing the evolving panorama, before arriving in Langmale Kharka (4410m), which has a couple of teahouses and campsites spaced well apart.

The avenue of mountains that line your route becomes ever more spectacular as Peak 3 and the snout of the West Barun Glacier appear. From Langmale Kharka the trail enters an ancient lateral moraine through which the infant Barun Nadi flows. A large glacial lake fills the valley to your left and an easy-to-follow trail leads to Shersong (4630m, 2.5hrs), a large grassy area used by yak herders in the monsoon months. Turn right and follow an obvious trail that climbs more moraine, and, once on top, maintain your height; do not descend into the valley to your left. Many small trails (formed by yak herds) stay about 100m above the valley floor before finally descending to a small bridge and the stone huts of Makalu Base Camp (4870m, 2 hours). Expeditions have left all sorts of supplies here over the years and it is possible to buy anything from wine to kerosene to apple jam and dehydrated meals. To the north, the massive bulk of Makalu rises about 3598m (11,824ft) to a pyramid summit; this is truly one of the most spectacular mountain viewpoints in Nepal!

You can take it easy and enjoy the views from Makalu Base Camp, or join a day hike further up the valley for some even more stupendous views!

Return to Tumlingtar along the same route, and enjoy those immense, amazing views again – they will stay with you forever!