We’ll get an early start from Kathmandu so arrive at the Chhetchet bridge by lunchtime. On the far side of the bridge, we climb a stone staircase up and around a rocky spur that juts into the river valley. The steps switchback for about 400m to the lower homes of Simigaon village (2 hours). Once you reach the first terraces the gradient eases as the trail winds between homes. It will take another 1.5 hours to reach the few teahouses and campsite (2036m) on the ridge above the village. 

From the gompa you can see the trail winding around the hillside to the north-east to a minor ridge (30 minutes) where the trail descends through forest to a small kharka about 30m above the Rolwaling Khola (2060m, 40 minutes).
From the kharka the trail begins a long and sometimes steep climb through forest. After 2 hours you should reach a large waterfall, which has a cool pool of water to soak your feet in if it’s a hot day. Continue to climb for another 2 hours to Gyalche Kharka (2832m) where there is a small shop and campsite. It is now an easy descent through forest and then beside a small stream to the spacious campsite at Dokhang (2791m, 40 minutes).

After the steep climbs of yesterday, the trail gradient is now much easier as it winds a course along the south bank of the Rolwaling Khola. Rhododendron, pine and juniper shade wildflowers in mossy glades, and the river cascades beside the trail. There are a few small landslides to cross, which make ideal places to spot birds catching insects above the river.
In 2 hours, you should reach a bridge to the true right (north) bank of the river, and in another 15 minutes you will reach a bridge over the Themlung Khola, which is surrounded by cairns. If you stand in the middle of the bridge and look up the steep ravine to the north you will see Gaurishankar looming overhead.

From the bridge the trail climbs a few hundred metres away from the V-shaped river valley and towards the U-shaped glacial valleys above. As you reach the top of the climb you will notice that juniper and fir trees become more common, and the snow and ice-covered bulk of Tsoboje peak fills the end of the valley ahead.
The gradient eases once again and you should reach the village of Nyamare (3550m) in another 2 hours. Bedding (3740m), where there are teahouses and a campsite, is now less than an hour away.

Bedding is a comfy and interesting place to have an acclimatization day. We’ll explore temples and ancient places of worship, as well as scout out some great viewpoints of the surrounding peaks. We’ll certainly be checking out the tiny gompa under a rock – it is said that a Buddhist monk came and lived in a cave behind the gompa before the village was established. To mark the site, a chorten was built and to offer a khadag to the chorten is considered to bestow good luck on the giver for as long as the scarf remains attached. Please offer a donation to the gompa if you want to admire the wood-panel frescoes inside.

Today is a short and easy trekking day, so there is plenty of opportunity to enjoy the views! The trail climbs an easy gradient away from Beding through miniature fir trees along a sometimes rocky trail. After 2.5 hours you should notice that the valley is becoming broader and flatter and some large boulders dot the landscape. One of the boulders has been carved with the Buddhist prayer, Om Mani Padmi Hum, and must be the largest single mani stone anywhere. Just beyond is another boulder with a large painting of Padmasambhava (aka Guru Rinpoche, the Lotus Born, who first took Buddhism to Tibet in the 8th century) and a small shrine. Na (4180m, 2 hours) is a scattered village on a broad alluvial fan where there are many camping options and teahouses. 

It is a good idea to take a day to acclimatise in Na, and there are a couple of good day trip options. The most popular day trip is to head up valley to a small kharka and then turn right on a small trail to Yalung Peak base camp (5 hours return trip). Alternatively, climb to the end of Tsho Rolpa lake for views of Kang Nachago above Na (4 hours return trip).

The trail above Na climbs a slight gradient to a bridge over the Tsho Rolpa outflow. From here you have two options: the main trail ascends an ablation valley to the south, alternatively, climb the terminal moraine wall that acts as a dam for the lake. Once at the lake, the trail winds around and descends slightly to the ablation valley to the south.
About halfway along the side of the lake, at Chhukyima there are a couple of small teashops run by locals from Na and a good campsite (4580m, 3 hours). Continue to the end of the valley and climb a steep hillside for 250m (1.5 hours) to a viewpoint of the lake and surrounding peaks. It is now a short descent to the broad sandy plateau of Kabug campsite (4820m, 30 minutes).

Before you begin today it is worth having a good look at the Trakarding Glacier below and trying to identify potential routes across it – groups often get separated here and finding each other can waste a lot of time. Cross the plateau to the furthest eastern corner above the glacier and then descend a loose earth trail to the southern edge of Trakarding Glacier (4735m, 40 minutes). From here there are several routes that cross the glacier. If you start early in the morning, the most obvious trail crosses almost immediately to a trail that ascends to the glacier’s northern side. However, this route is extremely prone to rockfall from mid-morning onwards. 

Alternative routes begin in about 30 minutes and again in an hour up the south side of the glacier. As with all glacier crossings care should be taken at all times, and your party should remain together throughout the crossing. Once on the north side of the glacier, follow a trail that leads to the snout of Drolambu Glacier. There is a large campsite at place called Noisy Knob Camp (4880m, 3.5 hours). If you have time, continue to the far side of the glacier snout to where a rock scramble (use a hand line for porter safety) brings you to another campsite beneath ice cliffs (5085m, 2 hours 20 minutes).
Note: many maps show a rocky route up the western side of the Drolambu Glacier snout, this route should be avoided as it is rarely used due to rockfall danger.

On the true left side of Drolambu Glacier (east) a stream has carved a rocky trail, climb this to access a glacial ablation valley (5350m, 1 hour). Stay in the bottom of the ablation valley all the way to the base of the glacier flowing down from Pachermo (5435m, 2.5 hours). The snout of this glacier has receded and you might need to put in a hand line for porter safety. Once onto the glacier, climb a natural ramp that leads all the way to the summit of Tashi Labsta (5760m, 3 hours) – be careful of crevasses! The pass is a rocky ridge, which is normally reached by climbing an icy slope on the lower flanks of Pachermo. From the top of the pass the high camp is beneath an overhanging rock-face about 100m down from the summit.

Note: close to the base of the overhang is safe from rockfall, whereas camping on the glacier below is dangerous.
If there is already a group camped here, head a little higher on the northern flank of Pachermo to a snowy plateau often used as a base camp for groups climbing Pachermo. The strong social and economic links between the Rolwaling and Thame valleys mean you could even meet a wedding party camped up here during the summer months!

From the high camp a trail traverses due east along the base of south-facing rock-face of Angole Peak. In less than an hour you should reach a broad notch in the cliff-face below, you will probably need to set a safety line for porters. The descent is about 70m to an obvious trail down rocky slopes to the campsite at Ngole (5130m, 2 hours 20 mins).
A steep trail leads down moraine from the camp to a shallow basin where there is a trail junction. Heading right takes you to a campsite beside a collection of small lakes Parchemuche Tsho (4765m, 1 hour), which is convenient if the descent from the pass has taken a long time.
The left trail is the main and faster route down to Thyangbo Kharka, which first climbs the smaller moraine wall on the far side (true left) of the basin and descends around a black cliff-face before winding down the true left (northern) side of the valley to Thyangbo Kharka (4320m, 3 hours), where there is a teahouse and good campsite.

It’s an easy trail down from Thyangbo Kharka (4320m, 2 hours) along the true left (northern) side of the valley, passing the famous gompa on then way down to the village of Thame (3820m).

The trail from Thame descends to the Bhote Kosi and crosses a bridge at the end of a canyon section carved by the river. The locals believe this is an auspicious place and have painted the rock-face above the bridge with Buddhas and prayers. The trail now climbs a little before settling into an easy downhill gradient to Thamo (3480m, 1 hour). Cross the Thesbu Khola and continue on a broad trail through pine forest all the way to Namche (3440m, 1.5 hours) where you will arrive next to the new helipad and many painted mani stones on the hill above the western side of the town.
If you want to make tomorrow’s trek shorter, continue on to Benkar or Phakding.

The trail from Namche leaves the southern entry to the town and descends almost 800m to the Bhote Kosi below (2 hours). The trail then winds down the river valley first to Monjo (2840m, 1 hour, the Sagarmatha National Park entry post), then Benkar (45 minutes) and then to Phakding (2610m, 1 hour), where there are numerous teahouses that make an ideal lunch stop.
An easy undulating trail leads to Ghat (2590m, 1 hour) where there are some fine painted mani boulders. It is then an easy climb to Lukla (2840m, 3 hours) where there are many teahouses and the famous airstrip with regular flights to Kathmandu.

It’s an early start for out flight back to Ramechap and then a 4 hour drive to Kathmandu and a hot shower!